underlining class and I then I knew what I wanted to do with my fabric. As it's a stretch woven I needed to underline it with a compatible fabric, so chose a brown stretch cotton sateen from Spotlight. Both fabrics have a similar amount of stretch, and will breathe nicely.
The hand basting did take some time. I used the Japanese silk basting thread from my class kit. Lovely. I then finished off the edges with a 3 thread overlock stitch. Basting around the darts helps keep both layers of fabric in place. The silk thread slips out easily when the darts are done.
The hem and waistband are hand finished with a catch stitch. For the waistband, I toyed with the idea of stitch in the ditch, but, firstly, I'm not very accurate at it and can get a bit wobbly, and secondly, at the moment my weight fluctuates and I want the waistband to be able to stretch a bit for comfort. The catch stitch for the hem only catches the underlining fabric, so is totally invisible from the right side. The catch stitch also allows the fabric to move and won't restrict the stretch. I wore the skirt all day today and never felt restricted or constricted.
I drew the skirt pattern from my Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit using the directions from the downloadable Pencil Skirt leaflet. I'm really glad I downloaded the leaflet. The instructions explain how to remove the wearing ease for a dress to make a more fitted skirt. It would have taken me many muslins to work this out for myself! I didn't do a straight pencil skirt, I flared it out just a little bit, partly as I think a slight flare suits me, and partly because I didn't want to do a pleat or other feature. I was hoping there was enough stretch in the fabric for movement.
There are a couple of minor tune-ups for next time. I will straighten the hip curve towards the waist - just a matter of finding which curve on the stylus best reflects my body. Also, the front darts need shortening just a little.
SFD Empire line dress . I fell in love with this double sided print and made a twist dress with it last summer. Keen to show off both prints, I have used the different sides for the upper and lower sections of this top. While I was making it a little voice inside my head was telling me that it's not a great idea this time and that it might be less flattering than, say, the floral print all over. I could remove the lower section and turn it the other way. Even though fabric will be lost in the conversion, there is just enough ease and stretch for it to work. What do you think?